Saturday, February 26, 2011

Milan: there are only Versace, Blumarine and Ferré

I know, I know that today was the day's highly anticipated show a high rate of glam, from Blumarine Versace, Gianfranco Ferré for switching. However, since we speak of luxury, I would like to also grant a once and begin the note of the third day of Milan Fashion Week subverting all the rules - including those of journalism - and talking about a show to be small, not particularly expected if not by experts in the strict sense.

An extremely elegant and sophisticated show, however, also affected by the poor performance of his photographic creations to be enjoyed absolutely live. That the young Gabriele Colangelo is a collection to look at but still first to touch, caress: inspired by Alberto Burri, Colangelo assembles lavoratissima and heterogeneous materials, textures, harmonic in conflict, torn fabric, corroded, felted, truly unique in color, from red magma lava to malachite green.

A (small) rate of elegance, creativity and a firm in choosing not to betray himself, even with the difficulty of proposing a coherent fashion may be difficult to communicate. Stubbornness to be praised even more the case of an emerging designer, with all the difficulties that the case involves.

Closed parenthesis, flashbacks! We return to the morning, with the Moschino show, which opened the ball. Rossella Jardini, creative director of the label for whom time really seems to pass ever, send on the bridge ... oops, on the catwalk, a kind of cruise ship captain: navy suits and coats, almost divided, sprayed with a sensuality to Audrey Hepburn.

White, red, blue and white, but especially a lot of gold, but also for the long skirts for the profiles of the double-breasted jackets. To imitate the contrasting lapels, or even in floral print. Not to imitate: the chicken-hat. In fact, why not? Antonio Marras has dedicated her collection to her mother.

A woman, as told by the Sardinian designer, "which embodies all the women." We will correct it: all the women who know how to dress tastefully, singing out from the crowd, anxious not to try to chase trends. Women who are "above the fads" such as rapping Jovanotti. Intelligent women who know what they like and what delighted to others.

Used to be that of a suit coat worn knew get honest and discreet. The same thing that makes Marras, collection after collection, proving to be very good in bringing to fruition a mission well not easy, mix in the same blue and black dress. Combination of the most chic, they can only afford the really good designers.

On the catwalk as crochet, embroidery, and pleated, in the final output, a group of white collar shirt for men. Seen almost everywhere, will be a detail from which you may not matter on the catwalk Les Copains there are at least two reasons to wring applause: on the one hand, knitting, centerpiece of the brand, the other the special guest who closed the show, a Belen Rodriguez returned from San Remo, softer than cashmere and more seductive silk.

Veronica Etro has a convincentissimo get some 'crazy textile crafts of ancient civilizations, fished and assembling tapestries, trimmings, upholstery and carpets, making them live with the classic Paisley pattern, like a flag of the Etro family. Outward and return journey between the Caucasus and Scotland, making a detour to Japan.

But that does not speak of ethnic fashion, because the taste for a mix & match so bold and volumes are entirely contemporary. Eyes of the press focused on testing all of the creative duo formed by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, their first collection since the historic brand Gianfranco Ferre has been bought by the entrepreneur in Dubai Abdulkader Sankari.

The brand, a bit 'in trouble, need ideas, style, recognizable. To reposition itself, as they say. Sankari is served: the collection is modern, sophisticated but simple, graphic, wearable and salable. There is nothing superfluous, nothing pretentious. A wardrobe practical, real, concrete.

What we wanted, in short. From pearl white to black, from ash to blue, clothes (from which more often disappear sleeves) and strictly coats to the knee, experimenting with materials, with their combination and effects "emotional" that produces . For the evening - too real, not just from the red carpet - jets, beeds and sequins, drawing with light body.

Well, good, (hopefully) a! For Blumarine, Anna Molinari began her show "misled" into believing that we can face the winter 2011 with a simple little black dress, a camel coat and a pair of cuissard. Would be too easy! The parade spariglia stilsita half the cards and send in a team colored mat (for those who still had not understood, the colors of the season must have a lemon yellow, orange and purple vitamin) for summary of girls coming from the sixties.

Strictly flat boots the same color trapeze dresses, suits the Courreges or Pierre Cardin, complete with blouse and pants (again, for those who had not yet realized: this will be the currency of the order of the fashion Fall / Winter 2011/12) . No prints, no embroidery, no roses and no animal.

What happened to Blumarine? Where has the woman's romantic and seductive? There is, but renovated, in the finale of the show: a triumph of lace nude look. Black or - could it be otherwise? - Colorful. Mood Sixites also C'N'C Costume National, where the graphics of those years is toned in shades of urban streetwear and underground typical teenager-Ennio Capasa, that the show is accompanied by a live performance of You Say France and I Wistle.

To close the day, and metaphorically pull the money we think Versace. The show of the House of Medusa, in the back seat because of the historical Jesus, reiterates and confirms the return of the sixties. The collection alternates between a series of military-inspired coats with flashy gold buttons, coins scattered everywhere, the sheath dresses above the knee, blacks, white, purple or green, decorated with stylized rococo scrolls macroscopic, but also with stylized flowers that seem equally stolen from a fabric Ottoman Empire.

The luxury knocks on the door in the form of leather, fur and snakeskin inlays diva. In the evening responding to a single imperative: marabou feathers! Guests of honor at the forefront of Duran Duran, players, the same evening, a concert at the Teatro dal Verme sponsored by Vogue Italy, City of Milan, Hogan and Peugeot.

Provided hordes of former teen which should not be passed yet the desire to marry Simon LeBon.

1 comment:

  1. Live soundtrack for C'N'C by You Say France & I Whistle. For more info: http://listn.to/yousayfrance

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