Sunday, February 27, 2011

Milan: a day in a state of grace on the catwalk

There is a certain embarrassment at having to write about clothes and trends front row in the day that we would not have wanted to live, and yet feared to arrive. In the parterre of the Milan fashion shows do not talk. They keep the rumors on the business desk Galliano. Just as well, perhaps, not to transform it immediately into chatter (like, so, it will happen anyway ...

the television was not expecting that a new Sarah Scazzi). But the news of the discovery of the body of Yara Gambirasio can not disturb. The "circus" continues, but at least a thought ... Fashion does not stop on weekends. Quite the contrary. The morning opened with a show that, in general, never disappoints.

And so it was this time too. The collection of Bottega Veneta (pictured) shows that if there is a beautiful thing, so in a fashion approved as the one we are experiencing is that, given a tendency to "accidentally" cuts across all the designers, everyone knows give a ' different interpretation.

And the best ones know how to give excellent interpretations. Take the sixties. We have seen references to that decade on many of the recent catwalks, but Tomas Maier, creative director of the label, can amaze with his unique interpretation, not at school. The lines are simple, exactly the opposite of what they are surfaces, elaborate.

With the curiosity of the investigator, the designer develop techniques and craftsmanship with the most diverse materials, from leather to wool waxed corrugated, molded from nylon lace. The result is a woman-Lady, who unexpectedly every now and then gives you a boost of modern sporty. Absolute must (except bags), jewelry, decorated with an uncanny eye.

Even Raf Simons for Jil Sander's platform sends a collection was born under a lucky star. The operation is clever at best terms. That spring was one of the most admired collections by experts? Here Simons takes all the winning features to bring it below zero, so as to create a collection - but not identical to the previous approval, similar to but not repetitive - with which to face the winter 2011.

Colors and shapes, forms and colors: nothing more (but it's not little, indeed!). The volumes are large, well-built forms, thanks to textured fabrics and rigid (some filled), the bright colors but not discounted. In certain outputs Balenciaga emerges as an allusion to the golden years (those of Cristobal).

In this part of the collection he sum but also a brand new, which could come to us to maintain a queen of the slopes of the '60s, a magazine but in an almost conceptual, which chooses panataloni with the brackets (that fit in the plateau) and knitwear patterned or hooded. Not easy, but Raf Simons - you know - never choose the path downhill.

King George, for Emporio Armani, surprises everyone and focuses on the total black, as a metaphor of a mysterious woman, out of an exciting spy story, not that you would never finish reading. A woman as black as night, and on the other hand is the success of Night of Fashion in keeping pace with the stride of the models (a leader Ricky Martin and Tina Turner who snatched a standing ovation in the hall with a smile ).

The silhouette is vertical, fluid. The most intriguing detail is a kind of shin-gaiter in black leather (no tip or a boot heel, to superimpose the low shoe), which leaves open the sensual instep. Go against the current Frankie Morello, who choose the world of rockabilly 50s for their collection quite strong.

The image you have in mind of the Fifties is not so much of the good wife who stays home with her skirt, waiting for the hubby. Their iconography is nourished by male elements (from the tie with tattoos), mixed with ultra-feminine are spectacular, like a mermaid silhouette dramatically, with a decided touch given by red skin.

There are no Frankie Morello without irony: a lead in bridging the right amount of mockery here then clothes covered with hundreds of "nose" for golden hair. If I can afford a touch of personal taste really, I like to indicate that Roberto Cavalli's fashion shows between the most striking, vital and charismatic seen on the catwalks this season.

In a sense, this collection reminds one - also very successful - 's Winter 2010 (seems so far away ... but that's where we will stay for another month!) Of the Tuscan designer: there, as here, the woman was represented overloaded, Baroque, opulent, iperdecorata ... be a moving hard to grasp and define.

A magma of style that knows no boundaries. A woman elusive, histrionic. There are dresses, blouses, jackets or coats. Or rather, there are, but it's as if they lived only in the overlap, blend in, entering each other, mingling with them. You do not understand the beginning of things, if they do not understand the end.

Everything is in flux, twisted, fluttering. There are scarves dangling from one hand to heave the other fringes. There are glittering bronzes and brasses. Speckled animal, velvet devorè, charm nomads. Feathers and gold threads. There are - to give a sense of order - men's style jackets and vests, put them to do as a fulcrum to a lever, made of pleated skirts and loose translucent top.

Roberto Cavalli has just turned 40 years of history: the vitality and creativity of those who are ahead of him at least another 40 years of success. Another one who has plenty of creativity is Peter Dundas, the Norwegian designer a few seasons creative director of Emilio Pucci. The proof is the success that its ultra-feminine collections have been: there is no celeb who has been able to resist, on the latest red carpet, with its sensual creations and "erotic." For the upcoming Fall / Winter Dundas takes us on a journey between the fairy-tale castles in Austria, as in a fairy tale by the Grimm brothers yet to be written.

The hero, a princess of seduction, which does not hesitate generous necklines and lace, crystals and gleams with corsets squeezed flakes (a little 'by Queen of Versailles), but also loden, flannel and velvet. It prints, ça va sans dire. The prince who accompanies her on the catwalk dressed in the first capsule Men by Emilio Pucci: But that's another story.

O fable.

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