Sunday, March 6, 2011

Paris: Haider Ackermann and if ...?

Of him you are talking a lot these days. In the hectic round of rumors that the dismissal of John Galliano kicked off, Haider Ackermann is often cited by experts and the insiders as a possible successor in the role of Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy's creative director Stefano Pilati or that of Director Yves Saint Laurent's creative, if one of the two Italian designers were really to be the lead, artistically speaking, the House of Dior.

But there are even those that may be just dare him to sit behind the desk who was the inventor of the prestigious New Look. Perhaps the more his name will not mean much, but Ackermann is truly one of the designers of the "new" generation with a personal vision and original style. Ackermann Auten is a citizen of the world by the cosmopolitan spirit.

Born 37 years ago in Bogota, Colombia, raised in Africa and educated in Belgium, the designer lives and works in Antwerp, the epicenter of fashion more intelligent and attractive, according to a fringe of strong supporters, produced in the last 25 years. His personal history, so rich and intense, is obvious from its collections, and the flow on the catwalk yesterday for the 'Fall / Winter 2011/12 in particular.

So beautiful, mature and refined to make the hypothesis of its creative director of Dior, at least until recently, however outlandish or unlikely, the desirable. It would be an unexpected choice, brave, unsettling. We'd love to. The woman points to the verticality of Ackermann, wearing long skirts and Fascinating, but also cleverly draped, as well as coats and jackets that skim the ground.

The waist is high, marked by belts that look like a contemporary version of the Western and Japanese dell'obi. A hint of the Orient also lives in kimono jackets. His materials of choice were and remain the leather and silk. Attitude of its male silhouette season after season, has been added femininity manifests, made of bare shoulders, plunging necklines and cuts on the unexpected too.

His color palette, more sophisticated, the dove, and black mastic has been matching shades as the peacock, the burgundy, cobalt, olive green. His collection more beautiful, and one of the best seen on the catwalks of Paris. The trend of the purity of forms and the search for a cleaning and an extreme graphics that we seemed to dominate the catwalks these days and we already have noted in previous posts, it was also on the catwalk yesterday: rigor by Loewe, where the skin that can not lord it, but also by Veronique Leroy and even by Cacharel, where the iconic prints known to live and communicate with volumes very clean that little romance to grant more evident.

Even the irrepressible Jean Paul Gaultier seems to put a stop to his unstoppable imagination elsewhere: a woman on the catwalk so funny, but not too much less provocative. The same applies to Viktor & Rolf, the two designers can not do without their scenic development of three-dimensional, real displays of architectural mastery, as well as their small, innocent aesthetic stimulation (the models have their faces painted red) but on closer inspection their collection also offers many basic, declaring their intention to enter the maximum number of wardrobe.

Do not betray its DNA and soul devoted to testing the brand Comme des Garcons, a series of outfits made by assembling half-icy wrinkled, knotted scarf sleeves and single outputs from somewhere, like modern works of art poor. Out from the crowd, to signal the sophisticated collection designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga for Vionnet.

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